Forget Cinco de mayo, the real May fiestas around here are the rodeo events at the Ferias de San Isidro. This patron Saint is known for protecting many parts of the Spanish-speaking world, the most famous being the capital city of Madrid, but more locally, the nearby village of Higuera Blanca.
Last month, I was happy to share my ranch enthusiasm with you. This month, I must continue in the same vein and share more ranchero tales.
Every year, in mid-May, all my ranch colleagues and friends meet for a three-day-straight party. It generally starts in the morning with a full cavalgata (cavalcade) and culminates in the evening with a Jaripeo.
The fun starts with a procession of horses
In this part of the world, the horse is a huge status symbol. The horse has long been revered for its part in agricultural communities around the world and Higuera Blanca is no different – the villagers are proud to show up on their mounts.
In previous years, over 2,000 riders joined together early on a Friday morning to escort the Saint and profess their allegiance to San Isidro. When the procession arrives in front of the Church, it stops and the priest blesses each rider with Holy Water. The procession then moves forward and the riders walk, dance and proudly show off their horses over the 5-mile promenade from Higuera to Punta Mita. It’s quite an experience to see so many attentive revelers on horseback in one spot.
Young ladies from the community vie for votes to become a “Queen of the Fiesta” which entitles them to a place of honor in the festivities. The “Queens” ride at the head of the parade with their royal gowns spread around them. Then come horses and riders of all shapes and sizes enjoying the camaraderie, the Banda (there is always an accompanying band walking alongside the parade) and the ever-flowing beer.
Once the group reaches its destination, everyone spends the best part of the day chatting, dancing, checking out each others’ mounts, enjoying the vibe…and drinking beer!
The long day turns to evening and everyone heads to the local bull ring for the Jaripeo.
What is a Jaripeo?
This sport is practiced mainly in Central and Southern Mexico as well as in rodeo events north of the border. It is a type of bull riding which dates from the 16th century. The sport began as a form of bullfighting where the rider rode the bull to death. Later, it evolved into a form where the rider tries to stay on the animal until it stops bucking.
Many things are not terribly well organized in Mexico – and the Jaripeo is no exception. But, it can be quite a feast for the eyes – and the senses – with a Banda band playing along keeping things nice and rambunctious.
If you are not familiar with Banda music, it is definitely the popular music of Pacific coastal Mexico. Although it can be quite an acquired taste, it is very diverse and features a wide range of musical genres and performance styles.
The whole village comes out to watch. Mostly men, but you will also see very young children, women dressed in their tightest jeans, rancheros complete with sombreros and spurs, young boys with bull riding dreams, old folk… everybody in the village, in fact. And most of them are drinking beer.
Nobody appears to be paying much attention to what is happening in the arena – sometimes even the bulls. Everybody seems to have their own agenda but this is, in fact, the highlight of the village social calendar. It is a wonderful way to celebrate the patron saint of the village and a great forum for people to get together, have fun and drink beer.
Beer sellers are plentiful and do a thriving business throughout the weekend. It’s always amazing to me that so much beer can be so well-chilled for so long.
The Jaripeo usually culminates in a fireworks display. People then disperse for dancing and drinking in the town square. For many, the party goes on all night.
This is probably one of the best examples of rural Mexican culture in the Punta Mita area. There is nothing touristy about this weekend – although foreigners are always welcomed with smiles and…cold beers.
If you want to take in some local colour and flavor, contact our concierge department (info@puntamita-rentals.com). They will be happy to set you up with a true rodeo experience.
Come on down to Higuera Blanca for the Ferias and enjoy the flavors of Mexico. Let’s get together and have a cerveza fria!
Salud!
— Miguel C
Bon vivant, gastronome and all-around great guy – Miguel Neves de Carvalho brings you the best of what Punta Mita and the surrounding area have to offer. His passions include polo, horse riding, rugby, cigars and most recently … golf.
Miguel lives in Punta Mita with his youngest son, his fiancée, Lisa, and his two dogs “Tanqueray” and “Tonica”.
He started Punta Mita-Rentals in 2012.
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